Compared to the craziness that is Naples, the streets of Pompeii are remarkably calm and the drivers will actually show some courtesy by not attempting to run you down as you cross the road. I found out the hard way that Pompeii has 3 railway stations, two of which face the main square but at opposite ends of the town. I guessed wrong then I picked my station on the map and spent 40 minutes trying to figure out why my map was backwards or if I had suddenly developed dyslexia.Anyway, we ultimately found our B & B and went thrugh the usual drill- Remove sweat soaked clothing, wash and hang the same then shower. During the afternoon we walked the perimeter of the ruins and traced a route back to the main square before making our way to dinner at Add'u Mimi where we spent 2 hours plus working our way through multiple courses of delicious food and beverages.
A light breakfast at our B & B at 8 then a short hike to the ruins for our grand tour.
Pompeii is not for the faint of heart, my pedometer recorded close to 16000 steps over the course of our 5 hour. While I could go into details that you could find anywhere, I will just simply comment that the site is probably one of the largest I have encountered and perhaps one of the more frustrating, since many routes are closed off due to further excavation thus eliminating easy access to buildings in the northern sections of the ruins. We occasionally encountered huge pedestrian traffic jams due to the sluggish speed of extremely large ( mostly cruise ship) groups of 50 or more. A guide would proobably have helped but they would not have allowed us the time or flexibility to cover as much of the ruins as we didi on our own. Clearly some further reading will be required to fully comprehend the intricacies behind many buildings. But the heavily accented English spoken by many of the guides around us would have also made this difficult.
A planned trip to Ercolano ( Herculaneum) with details already downloaded to our phones and pads should make it somewhat easier, the site being significantly smaller.
Sunday, September 20, 2015
Thursday, September 17, 2015
Last Night in Naples
Do Italians "REALLY" eat Tiramisu and cake for breakfast? Seems so from the buffet this morning- large hunks of chocolate cake and icing- as well as some really healthy stuff, fruit, bruscetta, frittatta and lots of strong coffee, but seriously, chocolate cake?
Anyway, we caught the metro to the Archeological museum because we figured it was a bit far to walk, Considering the 4 floors up and down to the underground station and the wait for the train, walking might have been quicker, but the temperature was already beyond 28 and the humidy was climbing, so NO!
The museum is the place to see "the stuff that is no longer at the ruins of Pompeii, several collections of paintings, mozaics, frescoes and various wall decorations. As well several rooms containing sculptures of various mythological and real people from Roman times, bot BC and AD. Like many of the statues that we had seen on our travels in Greece and Turkey, these were often reproductions of statues from other locations and earlier times. So no, knock-offs were not invented by the Chinese in the late 20th century, rather it is a form of flattery or plagiarism that has gone on for thousands of years.
With perhaps 20,000 pieces on display, I will spare you the details and say that we managed three hours before we decided that food does sometimes trump knowledge.
A trip into the Historical Centre found us facing block long lines for pizza at the main vendors so we found a side street and settled on seafood pasta.
Our next stop was a tour of Underground Naples, featuring tunnels and walkways dating back to Roman times. If you've ever been to Marry King's Close in Edinburgh, you'll get the idea, but not anywhere near as impressive.
Our final stop was the Museo Cappella Sansavero . Built in the 16th century, part Chapel, part family mausoleum, the current structure is an example of ultimate beauty or ultimate, over the top gaudiness, depending on one's point of view. About 30 sculptures line the building, the most famous being Il Cristo Velato or the Veiled Christ, depicting Christ, post cruxifiction shrouded by a thin cloth, through which can be seen details as the veins and the wounds. The entire piece was carved from a single piece of marble as were many of the other pieces on display. With photography prohibited we felt a little "short-changed" but like everything else "google it" should correct that situation.
After 3 full days of exploration, we felt that Naples had shown us all it could offer and we returned to our hotel to re-pack for our next 3 days in and around Pompeii.
Walking out for dinner this evening, I still found myself touched by dozens of vendors on the street. one for every 50 feet of pavement, wares displayed on blankets, their efforts all but ignored by most of the passersby. Naples has always been a city associated with Organized Crime. Could his be part ofthe same? perhaps nothing more than an attempt to launder money back into the system. I guess I'll never know.
Anyway, we caught the metro to the Archeological museum because we figured it was a bit far to walk, Considering the 4 floors up and down to the underground station and the wait for the train, walking might have been quicker, but the temperature was already beyond 28 and the humidy was climbing, so NO!
The museum is the place to see "the stuff that is no longer at the ruins of Pompeii, several collections of paintings, mozaics, frescoes and various wall decorations. As well several rooms containing sculptures of various mythological and real people from Roman times, bot BC and AD. Like many of the statues that we had seen on our travels in Greece and Turkey, these were often reproductions of statues from other locations and earlier times. So no, knock-offs were not invented by the Chinese in the late 20th century, rather it is a form of flattery or plagiarism that has gone on for thousands of years.
With perhaps 20,000 pieces on display, I will spare you the details and say that we managed three hours before we decided that food does sometimes trump knowledge.
A trip into the Historical Centre found us facing block long lines for pizza at the main vendors so we found a side street and settled on seafood pasta.
Our next stop was a tour of Underground Naples, featuring tunnels and walkways dating back to Roman times. If you've ever been to Marry King's Close in Edinburgh, you'll get the idea, but not anywhere near as impressive.
Our final stop was the Museo Cappella Sansavero . Built in the 16th century, part Chapel, part family mausoleum, the current structure is an example of ultimate beauty or ultimate, over the top gaudiness, depending on one's point of view. About 30 sculptures line the building, the most famous being Il Cristo Velato or the Veiled Christ, depicting Christ, post cruxifiction shrouded by a thin cloth, through which can be seen details as the veins and the wounds. The entire piece was carved from a single piece of marble as were many of the other pieces on display. With photography prohibited we felt a little "short-changed" but like everything else "google it" should correct that situation.
After 3 full days of exploration, we felt that Naples had shown us all it could offer and we returned to our hotel to re-pack for our next 3 days in and around Pompeii.
Walking out for dinner this evening, I still found myself touched by dozens of vendors on the street. one for every 50 feet of pavement, wares displayed on blankets, their efforts all but ignored by most of the passersby. Naples has always been a city associated with Organized Crime. Could his be part ofthe same? perhaps nothing more than an attempt to launder money back into the system. I guess I'll never know.
Wednesday, September 16, 2015
Where Do You Go Too, My Lovely?
The above title references a song from the mid-1960's written by a now forgotten artist, Peter Sarstedt. I was reminded of its references to Naples as we returned to the hotel from a late night dinner.
At 10pm, most of the tourists are back in their cruise ship bunks and all that remains on the streets are small groups of locals hanging out in the slowly cooling evening air. Perhaps they want company or are just trying to avoid the heat of upper floor apartments that dont have air conditioning. On the main block, Via Foria, several police cars are lined up, most of their drivers engaged in group conversation, while the remainder stand or lean against open car doors as if waiting for some action to occur.
Several feet away a drunk sits glassy eyed on a small blanket, a 3/4 finished bottle of red wine, open, between his legs.
Continuing our walk along the Via Carbonnara, kids are playing in the streets while older kids smoke quite openly, cigarettes, some cigars, some joints. Looking down darkened back streets, there is some laundry still hanging and the occasional wanderer, but it doesn't look too inviting.
As we approach a main intersection, more police cars are visible, some parked with standard police logos, other black and generally bigger SUV's are marked Carbanieri- perhaps they are expecting some action. Again, several feet away another drunk, passed out, ignored, lays half behind a parking barrier while a few feet away a prostitute seems to be negotiating with a client.
Further on, small food stalls and shops are offering rotisserie chicken and pizza, their owners proudly displaying large dome like pizza ovens glowing red hot, yet they seem oblivious to the heat.
Closer to the hotel, several dozen men, mostly black, are standing silently in front of a betting house window, their attention totally focussed on a large (60inch?) TV which is showing a scoreless soccer game, its speakers cranked high to allow the commentators voice to penetrate through the glass. As we approach the entrance to the hotel, a cheer goes up from the group- I am guessing someone scored.
Safely inside our building, some time later on, I can hear a group of loud voices shouting boistrously- perhaps someone bet on the right team. Looking down at the street below, a food truck vendor seems to be doing brisk business as people sit or stand, consuming his offerings. Adjacent to the food truck others seem to be selling trinkets and pens from small plastic tables, with few takers.
I close the shutters and let the air conditioner drown out what remains of the street sounds for another night.
At 10pm, most of the tourists are back in their cruise ship bunks and all that remains on the streets are small groups of locals hanging out in the slowly cooling evening air. Perhaps they want company or are just trying to avoid the heat of upper floor apartments that dont have air conditioning. On the main block, Via Foria, several police cars are lined up, most of their drivers engaged in group conversation, while the remainder stand or lean against open car doors as if waiting for some action to occur.
Several feet away a drunk sits glassy eyed on a small blanket, a 3/4 finished bottle of red wine, open, between his legs.
Continuing our walk along the Via Carbonnara, kids are playing in the streets while older kids smoke quite openly, cigarettes, some cigars, some joints. Looking down darkened back streets, there is some laundry still hanging and the occasional wanderer, but it doesn't look too inviting.
As we approach a main intersection, more police cars are visible, some parked with standard police logos, other black and generally bigger SUV's are marked Carbanieri- perhaps they are expecting some action. Again, several feet away another drunk, passed out, ignored, lays half behind a parking barrier while a few feet away a prostitute seems to be negotiating with a client.
Further on, small food stalls and shops are offering rotisserie chicken and pizza, their owners proudly displaying large dome like pizza ovens glowing red hot, yet they seem oblivious to the heat.
Closer to the hotel, several dozen men, mostly black, are standing silently in front of a betting house window, their attention totally focussed on a large (60inch?) TV which is showing a scoreless soccer game, its speakers cranked high to allow the commentators voice to penetrate through the glass. As we approach the entrance to the hotel, a cheer goes up from the group- I am guessing someone scored.
Safely inside our building, some time later on, I can hear a group of loud voices shouting boistrously- perhaps someone bet on the right team. Looking down at the street below, a food truck vendor seems to be doing brisk business as people sit or stand, consuming his offerings. Adjacent to the food truck others seem to be selling trinkets and pens from small plastic tables, with few takers.
I close the shutters and let the air conditioner drown out what remains of the street sounds for another night.
Tuesday, September 15, 2015
Napoli- Day 2
A bus ride across town this morning brought us to the Santa Lucia district of Naples where we spent a couple of hours touring the Palazzo Reale ( Royal Palace), built in the 16th century. The museum, which seemed to be the only part of the palace not covered by scaffolding and construction "drapes" consists of a very elaborate staircase and several large rooms. Essentially apartments, they contained various furnishings, tapestries, statues and paintings from, mostly 16th-18th centuries.
Adjacent to the Palace, the Castel Nuevo, a 13th century castle keep looms over much of the harbour area. Mostly displaying "more old stuff!" we decided to save the entry fee and opted for a walk down to the port area and ferry terminal. The presence of 4 rather large cruise ships explained the thousands of tourists being herded through the city by umbrella wielding tour guides.
An uphill hike into the Centro Historico brought us to a small square where several hundred local students seemed to be behaving just like kids do everywhere! We escaped the crowds by entering the Basilica di Santa Chiara, a rather large structure which was originally ( 14th century) a residence for monks and (somewhat later) for nuns too. Its main feature is an impressive garden area bounded on all sides by cloisters with elaborate ceiling decorations and frescoes. The garden itself features 72 octagonal columns decorated with ceramic tiles. Each column is attached to the adjacent one with a bench of ceramic tiles which feature scenes depicting rural life in the 18th century.
Incidentally, most of the basilica was reduced to rubble by allied bombing in WWII, restoration being commenced post-war and completed in 1953, 10 years after the initial destruction.
Exiting the Basilica we sampled some local pizza, ( rather disppointing) before catching a bus back to the hotel, (exhausted but somewhat more educated!) for a quick shower and siesta before venturing out for the evening.
Adjacent to the Palace, the Castel Nuevo, a 13th century castle keep looms over much of the harbour area. Mostly displaying "more old stuff!" we decided to save the entry fee and opted for a walk down to the port area and ferry terminal. The presence of 4 rather large cruise ships explained the thousands of tourists being herded through the city by umbrella wielding tour guides.
An uphill hike into the Centro Historico brought us to a small square where several hundred local students seemed to be behaving just like kids do everywhere! We escaped the crowds by entering the Basilica di Santa Chiara, a rather large structure which was originally ( 14th century) a residence for monks and (somewhat later) for nuns too. Its main feature is an impressive garden area bounded on all sides by cloisters with elaborate ceiling decorations and frescoes. The garden itself features 72 octagonal columns decorated with ceramic tiles. Each column is attached to the adjacent one with a bench of ceramic tiles which feature scenes depicting rural life in the 18th century.
Incidentally, most of the basilica was reduced to rubble by allied bombing in WWII, restoration being commenced post-war and completed in 1953, 10 years after the initial destruction.
Exiting the Basilica we sampled some local pizza, ( rather disppointing) before catching a bus back to the hotel, (exhausted but somewhat more educated!) for a quick shower and siesta before venturing out for the evening.
Italy Day 1
Sweet Sleep is the name of the small private hotel that will be our home for the next 3 day. As it is on the sixth floor of an old building Sweat Sleep might be a better title, considering that the temperature at 10pm is still hovering around 27 degrees,get
Our balcony actually overlooks the Piazza Garibaldi, one of the city's main Squares and the main transportation hub of the town.
Our flight landed at Naples airport at noon and it took no time at all to grab our luggage and hop a bus to the Square. Armed with a poor map of the city it took almost a half hour to locate our building. Located on the sixth floor and reached by a coin-op elevator ( yes! a dime a trip) All I had were 2 five cent coins which didn't fit the coin box. So our first trip, luggage and all was via the staircase.
After a seriously needed change of clothing we set off to explore the old city and promptly got lost. Naples is an easy city to get lost in, with some rather narrow streets and tourist maps that are not quite to scale or accurate. The city is easily walkable if one doesn't mind the rather oppressive heat and humidity. There seems to be a historical church at almost every street corner, most in a state of disrepair and several in a state of what must be perpetual renovation. Beside these various churches, street vendors and small shops offered everything from pizza to purses. As if the streets weren't busy enough, every 50 to 60 feet a Somali street vendor was offering "genuine" knock-offs of famous designers, purses, wallets, bags and the inevitable "selfie" sticks. I am not sure why every single streetvendor seemed to have the same racial characteristics- perhaps to better tolerate the heat !
Three hours and maybe 15 churches and cathedrals later we returned to our hotel, loaded up with bevereages, so wecould relax and await sunset and a hoped for drop in temperature, which never really happened.
We eventually ventured out for supper for a typical Italian meal. Starting with a sizeable salad, I managed to work my way through a pasta (first course) and a plate of grilled calamari (second course) , nicely washed down with a bottle of the local vino- Falanghina de Vesuvio ( I think they call it that cause your head feels like a volcano exploding the next day!!) LOL . Luckily Susanna did her best to make sure she got her fair share, otherwise I would probably still be under the table. The entire meal came to a reasonable 34 euro, including the wine which was only 6 Euro a bottle.
A walk around the neighbourhood after dinner brought us to the Circumvesuvio train station, from where we will make our way south on Thursday morning. Public transport seems to be quite efficient around here ( apparently Mussolini gets much of the credit for that, if not much else)
Sorry folks, but no pictures at this point- just spent 30 minutes trying to upload one!
Sorry folks, but no pictures at this point- just spent 30 minutes trying to upload one!
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