Sunday, January 9, 2011

Las Penitas Beach

 Noon Wednesday 5th
  An early checkout from the hotel followed by a lengthy hike across town brought us to the district known as Subtiava. Essentially a barrio (suburb)) of Leon, it is one of the few that remains culturally and ethnically diverse, with a heritage based on the indigenous i.e. pre-Spanish) population. Having explored the area on a previous visit (2009) our only purpose in visiting the area was to reach the bus station.
   A 40-minute (50 cent!) bus ride took us to and then south along the pacific coast to Las Peñitas Beach and a small hotel/hostel called Barca de Oro
   Located right on the Pacific Ocean this rather rustic paradise consists of a dorm room plus 7 or 8? private rooms. With rather basic services including a restaurant and bar, its primary attraction is a cooling breeze off the pacific and a break from the hustle and bustle of the city. The room we were given offers a fan, windows on both sides to allow cross ventilation, plus mosquito nets to protect us from the blood suckers!
  Birds flit around the garden as we enjoy the shade, while a pair of tame parrots (appear to) provide a running commentary on the local happenings.
  Lunch consists of sopa de pescado- literally fish soup, but containing far more- 3 or 4 crabs, a small, essentially, whole fish, several shrimp plus a good supply of vegetables.
 A camarone a la plancha features 6 very large shrimp served on a hot cast iron pan with fries, rice and a salad.

  With the sun still fairly high in the sky (3pm) a walk along the beach has burned off a few calories. Heavy surf seems to hammer the beach constantly and a cooling breeze disguises the intense heat of the day.
Currently I am relaxing in a palapa about 12 feet above the beach. A large inland lagoon has now formed where there was mostly dry sand when we arrived. Fishing boats formerly stranded now bob around in water several feet deep.
 The hotel has actually closed up shop for the afternoon- it is their turn to enjoy a staff Christmas party, their first evening off since early December.
5pm
  My brief siesta is disturbed by the competing screams and squawks of parrots and kids. Emerging from my room I find myself witnessing a piñata murder. With most of the kids too young or too unwilling to wear the traditional obligatory bindfold, the hapless victim was quickly dismembered. A few more blows and candy was flying all over the patio.
 Following the trail of the sun as it slowly descended into the ocean, I made my way west along the coast, snapping, what I hope will be, memorable images of a Nicaraguan sunset.
  8:30pm
   With a lazy supper of fish, fries and salad behind me, I am awaiting the return of the breeze while I watch the tide recede under a moonless but very starry night.
 With no TV to interrupt my thoughts, I do not anticipate a late night.
  Around me on the patio are a variety of obviously American yuppies who majored in psychology spouting an endless stream of b.s. and one-upmanship that would gag a maggot. Susanna thinks they are extras from the Twilight movies!! Between them and a couple of glasses of wine, I should have no trouble sleeping tonight.
  Tomorrow the plan is to use public transport for our trek back to Granada. I am guessing 4 to 5 hours of bussing and waiting for the next one. Buenos Noches!

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