Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Mangua-squatter camps and suburban malls

Crossing streets in Managua is an art form and is not without risk. Somewhat less risky than swimming with cinder blocks in your pockets, it does, nevertheless, require a considerable amount of nerve and skill. Before trying it for yourself, I would suggest trying something slightly tamer, such as the Running of the Bulls in Pamplona.
 While it does have a reputation of being dangerous, I have been less concerned for my safety there than on some of the backstreets of Granada.
   Today, I had my first taste of “real” Chinese food since I arrived in the country. A hot and sour soup followed by a tofu and vegetable dish made me realize just how great the food is in Toronto. While the restaurant itself was recommended and the food “decent” I think I will wait till I get home for my next Comida China.
 My main purpose for today’s trip was to see the museum at the Palatio National. [It was closed on my last visit]  One of the staff gave me a guided tour, in passable English, of the various exhibits, which ranged from giant dinosaur bones to ancient pottery, old political documents and a cultural display of the country. The latter featured economic information, statistics of imports and exports and most interestingly a detailed description of the foods common to the various Central American countries and the regional differences in the way they are made. Corn is a main staple in most diets and is featured in dozens of foods. Gallo pinto or rice and beans or beans and rice is also something that most Nica’s eat for at least 2 if not 3 meals a day. I still prefer the way it is made in Belize using coconut liquid instead of plain water.
 After seeing the museum and listening to a part of a poetry reading by the statue of Rueben Dario [the national poet] I hailed a taxi back to the Metro Centro (one of 4 malls in the city) passing, on the way, some of the most disgustingly poor squatter camps that I have ever seen.
 [Following the destruction of the 1972 earthquake, most of central Managua was abandoned, leaving a fairly large expanse of vacant land that no-one wants- hence the squatters. Now, some 40 years later, there does seem to be some attempt by the local government to replace the squats with some small but habitable housing complexes]
 Heading south from the Metro Centro for about 3km I eventually found myself at Las Gallerias de Santo Domingo- what seemed to me to be-the largest mall in the city. Going from the squatter camps in downtown to this suburban palace of a shopping centre, I couldn’t believe I was in the same country, let alone the same city. With a food court featuring sushi and steak restaurants I was totally blown away. When I later came upon the Audi dealership on the ground floor I was convinced I was starting to lose my mind.
  While I was able to pick up a pair of shoes at Payless for $40, I cant imagine how a local earning $5 a day would have any use for such a place, and yet at least 75% of the traffic was locals as opposed to tourists,

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