Throne Room-Knossos |
Knossos, Crete- palace reconstruction |
Tuesday 20th Sept. 5pm
As we near the end of our third day in Crete
it is clear that much more time is required to put even a small dent in the
list of things to see and do.
Yesterday a bus tour
kept us occupied most of the day. Our first stop was the ancient site of Knossos, located approx.
5km south of Heraklion. The site is a partial ruin/ partial reconstruction of a
Minoan Palace from approx 3000 BC. The site was
first discovered in 1878 with excavation commencing in earnest around 1900.
When studying the site it is difficult to know where the mythological legends
end and where true history begins. Linked to various stories including that of
the Labyrinth and the Minotaur, the reconstruction is largely based on the
imagination of Arthur Evans. He was the principal archeologist who excavated
the site. Due to the use of wood and stucco, as opposed to stone, in the original
construction, little remains of the upper structures. The extensive use of wood
enabled the buildings to withstand earthquakes more successfully than a stone
structure. There does seem to be some evidence that the site was ultimately
destroyed around 1600 BC by a tsunami originating from the volcanic destruction
of Santorini. While the site is currently 5km inland from the Aegean
its northern section did originally border the sea and it was actually a key
Aegean port involved in trade with other centres of commerce.
Following the Knossos tour the bus
travelled east along the coast for several km before turning south , ascending
to a level of 1000 meters in an area known as the Plateau of Lasithi. A fertile area measuring approx 12km
by 6, it is one of the key agricultural areas on the island. Much of the local
potato crop is grown here as well as apples, pears, cherries, figs, walnuts and
almonds. A brief stop afforded a visit to a monastery known by both the names
Kardiottissa and Panayia Kera, the latter meaning Precious Lady, the former
name relates to the ancient Greek names for both heart and walnut so its actual
meaning is debatable.
Lunch involved a
stop at a “traditional Greek tavern” That is tour guide lingo for a place
serving overpriced average food, and a kickback for the tour operator.
Following lunch we
made a brief stop at a family pottery ( more baksheesh for the tour guide!) then a final stop at a place known as Diktaio
Andro or the Psychro
Cave. According to Greek
Mythology this is where the mother of Zeus hid her son to prevent him from
being eaten by his father, the god
Apollo The visit involved a rather strenuous 20 minute hike up the side
of a mountain to reach the cave entrance, followed by a further 20 minutes to
enter and exit a cave that I found to be rather anticlimactic. Actually, after
seeing the ATM cave in Belize,
almost any cave pales in comparison.
Fresco reproduction-Knossos |
This morning a trip
by local bus to Heraklion took around 40 minutes. The first stop omnce we
reached the capital was the museum of archeology. Essentially under renovations
since 2006 only one room of key exhibits was on display. Several frescoes from Knossos were featured
along with many examples of pottery and jewelry from both the Minoan Period and
the later Dorian and Roman periods.
After leaving the
museum we walked through the downtown area, which features several pedestrian
streets. Primarily geared to tourists the area consists of mostly cafes,
souvenir shops and the occasional designer clothing shop offering expensive
clothing in sizes too small for the typical Canadian. A walk down to the old
port was rewarded with a glimpse of an old Venetian fortress as well as an old
Monastery and surrounding ruins under restoration.
The return to the
hotel was a little challenging as the destination signage on the buses was tricky to decipher. Fortunately a bus
driver steered us to the correct bus.
Arriving at the
hotel by 2pm we just caught the end of the lunch service then spent the
afternoon relaxing by the pool.
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