10:30pm Sunday.
A long and tiring
day is behind us. We arrived at the main square just before 9am, in time to get
a good seat (we actually stood) for the Inti Raymi festivities. Held annually on the 24th of June,as a celebration of the Winter equinox it has become more of a tourist attraction with some loss of its original religious overtones.
Like everything
else around here the 9am performance commenced promptly at 10:20am. For an hour
and a half we watched a series of costumed dancers parading through the square,
interspersed with speeches, in the local Inca based language from key
characters in historic costume.
(Sort of like watching an opera without the sur-titles.)
Once that part of
the festivities ended we returned to the hotel for a fast break before joining
a massed assembly of thousands walking towards the historic site of Saqsaywaman,
an Inca settlement and fortress 2km out of town (mostly just ruins) with walls comprised of massive blocks weighing
several tons.
Here, the second
part of the ceremony took place. While we were told that admission to this area
was by paid ticket only, we could, in retrospect have sat on the neighbouring
hills with the locals. The view would not have been as good, nor the seating,
on stony ground, as comfortable.
Inti Raymi 2012_ Ritual Sacrifice |
Dancers at Inti Raymi 2012 |
The ceremony, lasting
close to 2 hours was a re-enactment of the Inca Ceremony to the Sun God asking
for support for the community and blessing for the harvest and the season to
come. Grossly accurate in detail, it featured the ritual sacrifice of a llama,
complete with removal of its heart and lungs. [I would assume from close up
photos and conversations with people that the llama had already been killed and
bled prior to the ceremony]
It was conducted entirely
in Inca but a supplied guidebook offered translations of the speeches into
Spanish and English. Highly elaborate and involving upwards of 1,000 actors and
dancers, it was, to say the least, spectacular.
Ceremonial Knife and bleeding cup_Larco Museum |
The walk back to
down, was, again, a mob scene, but fortunately it was downhill, so less tiring
than the road there. The plan for
tomorrow is to do a lot less than we did today, hopefully we stick to plan!
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