Lima,
Thursday June 21st
An 8 am alarm
signaled the beginning of the first full day in Lima. The restaurant, located on the 8th
floor of the hotel provided an impressive view of the city as well as the Pacific ocean, less than ½ km away. The sky was overcast
and would remain that way throughout the day, the temperature hovering between
16 and 18 degrees.
We spent most of the
morning walking along the Malecon, a scenic drive/walkway that followed the
cliff top south along the western side of Miraflores.
By way of
background, Miraflores is one of the principal districts of Lima, and perhaps its most affluent, with
over 70 parks and dozens, or even hundreds of high-rises, office buildings and
expensive apartments.
Lima has a
population somewhere between 9 and 10 million people, and judging by the
traffic, they are constantly on the move, Based on my experiences today, the
risk of being run over on a crosswalk is probably the Number One cause of death
in this city, followed a distant second by being run over by a skateboarder,
Strangely, the area
is without the abject poverty, homeless people and beggars that were so common
in the cities of Central America. Judging by
the obsessive way city workers were
cleaning streets and picking up garbage, I would not be surprised if there was
not a program in place for keeping the “detritus” of society hidden from the
eyes of the tourists and the local yuppies.
All the local dogs
seem well cared for, walked and leashed by doting owners or their assigned “dog
walkers” Only cats seemed to show an element of homelessness with several dozen
wandering in groups around the Plaza Central and Cathedral. Unlike the ferile
cats of other cities, these all appeared well fed and cared for, perhaps a
prodject undertaken by the local Catholic Diocese which seemed to put out food
and water for them in the parks
A quick lunch of
chicken, cooked vegetable salad (carrots, beans, avocado , beets and carrots)
was washed down with an Inka Cola, a rather fluorescent green/yellow beverage
of unknown content (other than lots of sugar.)
Following lunch we
boarded an open double decker bus for a brief tour of Miraflores before
travelling to Central Lima, where we had an all too quick tour of the Principal
City Squares, as well as the major buildings, the main Cathedral, Art Gallery,
Museums, various Government
Palaces, Churches etc.
Leaving the city centre for a smaller district we stopped at
a building known as the Larco museum, home to a large collection of Ceramica,
textiles and jewelry dating back to the time from several hundred years BC and
following a time line to the Inca reign and the Spanish Conquest.
A “highlight" of the
museum is a gallery of Pre-Columbian ceramic erotica with clay figurines placed in poses and
depicting a variety of X-rated activities that would have made J&J very
wealthy if they had invented K-Y Jelly in 1200AD!!!
(And NO, I didn’t
take any photos- although they should be on the internet!)
Returning to Miraflores and the Cathedral area we made a
meandering journey to the hotel, stopping on the way at the Wong Supermarket,
where one could buy a roast chicken and fries for a little over $5. One could
also buy the chicken raw, buy a pot to cook it in, buy the stove needed to cook
it as well as the dining table, utensils, as well as the video camera to film
the event. The only thing they didn’t have for sale was a truck to take it all
home.
After a brief
rest/shower, back at the hotel we set out in search of a seafood restaurant,
locating one in a strip of pizza restaurants and bars near Diagonal street (
one of the principal streets in Miraflores,)
I ordered a pescado
ala plancha- grilled fish topped with sauted vegetables and fries, Somehow the
order got lost in translation and I ended up with Ceviche de Pescado, Deciding
not to have a fruitless argument with a waiter in a language I am poorly
proficient in, I decided to enjoy what I had- and enjoy I did. I figured if the
traffic doesnt kill me the raw seafood might. Luckily the chef seemed to have
done a great job of marinating the fish and I am feeling well enough to face
another day, the itinerary for which remains to be discovered.
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