Birth Control Pills Cause Brain Damage: Lake Titicaca

July 4^th,

Seems that the last 3 days has flown by. Monday, up at 5:30 for a 7am bus from Cuzco to Puno. The trip was a “tourist” bus which meant it stopped in 5 different sites on the way- nothing too memorable! It was pleasant enough trip, in spite of the fact that we did not arrive in Puno till 5:30pm. The last town north of Puno was Juliaca, apparently known as the Taiwan of Peru due to the vast number of factories turning out cheap items from cars to washing machines. Aside from Guatemala City it has to be the ugliest dirtiest town I have ever seen.

Downtown Puno looks nice and clean. The Hotel Punuypampa is by far the best hotel, in terms of comfort and staff attitude, that we have stayed so far. The bathroom even has a small bathtub instead of just a shower.


Approaching Uros islands


Typical large boat


Locals embroidering pillow cases


Mother and daughter with wares for sale

The Puno/Lake Titikaka ( or Titicaca) adventure started at 8am, Tuesday with a boat ride to the Uros Islands. These are islands made of a reed known as Totora. The islands are essentially made of the root area of the reed, cut into manageable sections and strapped together using synthetic cord ( e.g. nylon rope) Similar in texture to peat, it floats when released from the lake bottom. The mass is then covered with layer upon layer of the actual reed, reaching a thickness of (apparently) several meters. Buildings are then constructed using the same reed. In some cases more elaborate buildings of wood like churches, schools and restaurants are built on the larger islands. Anchored some 4km off the coast they originally isolated the inhabitants from invading armies and other tribes. Now they are mostly a tourist attraction, the inhabitants making revenue from the sale of embroidery etc.

After an hour long visit, we set off once again to Isla Amantani, some 2 hours away.

Typical meal- egg and boiled potatoes

Homestay kitchen area

There, our group of approx 20 tourists met with local families for what would be a one night homestay. Accommodations were fairly basic adobe houses with no heat, electricity or running water. The menu was essentially vegetarian and the conversation somewhat limited since the locals use a dialect, Quechua as their primary language. With no roads and no motor vehicles the island was mostly quiet, except for the sounds of the wind and sheep bleating. A hike to the highest point on the island brought us to a ruin and shrine known as Pachamama

( Mother Earth) At 4100meters it marked the highest elevation on the entire trip.


Four layers of blankets to keep out cold!

After a small dinner in almost total darkness (one candle and a flashlight) bedtime involved being almost crushed under 4 woolen blankets to hold off the cold.

The rising sun and the sheep in the pen below the bedroom window provided the 6 am wake up call. A light breakfast- coffee and 2 pancakes with jam, provided fuel for the next leg of the journey. A one hour boat ride brought us to Isla Taquile, where a 25 minute uphill hike brought us to the main village square. The view from the pathway of the surrounding lake, with Bolivia in the background was quite stunning. After a brief stop at the square to buy more hand made clothing items, the trip down to the other side of the island involved 550 rather rough cut stone stairs.

The return to Puno involved a further stop at one of the Uros islands for a fried trout lunch, then a ½ hour boat ride back to the dock where a shuttle returned us to our respective hotels and, for most people, a long overdue shower and change of clothing.

Overall, an eye-opening and somewhat rustic experience that makes one appreciate the comforts of home.


Locals gatheriing straw

Tonight a pre-supper walk around the main plaza was interrupted by a sizeable demonstration. A police vehicle, an armoured troop carrier was parked in front of the police station and one side of the square was lined with police in riot gear with plastic shields. Within half an hour the square was filled with several hundred protestors – apparently related to a university strike. Expecting another rehash of Athens last September we selected an alternate route back to the hotel.