Thursday, September 17, 2015

Last Night in Naples

Do Italians "REALLY" eat Tiramisu and cake for breakfast? Seems so from the buffet this morning- large hunks of chocolate cake and icing- as well as some really healthy stuff, fruit, bruscetta, frittatta and lots of strong coffee, but seriously, chocolate cake?
Anyway, we caught the metro to the Archeological museum because we figured it was a bit far to walk, Considering the 4 floors up and down to the underground station and the wait for the train, walking might have been quicker, but the temperature was already beyond 28 and the humidy was climbing, so NO!
 The museum is the place to see "the stuff that is no longer at the ruins of Pompeii, several collections of paintings, mozaics, frescoes and various wall decorations. As well several rooms containing sculptures of various mythological and real people from  Roman times, bot BC and AD. Like many of the statues that we had seen on our travels in Greece and Turkey, these were often reproductions of statues from other locations and earlier times. So no, knock-offs were not invented by the Chinese in the late 20th century, rather it is a form of flattery or plagiarism that has gone on for thousands of years.
 With perhaps 20,000 pieces on display, I will spare you the details and say that we managed three hours before we decided that food does sometimes trump knowledge.
 A trip into the Historical Centre found us facing block long lines for pizza at the main vendors so we found a side street and settled on seafood pasta.
 Our next stop was a tour of Underground Naples, featuring tunnels and walkways dating back to Roman times. If you've ever been to Marry King's Close in Edinburgh, you'll get the idea, but not anywhere near as impressive.
 Our final stop was the Museo Cappella Sansavero . Built in the 16th century, part Chapel, part family mausoleum, the current structure is an example of ultimate beauty or ultimate, over the top gaudiness, depending on one's point of view. About 30 sculptures line the building, the most famous being  Il Cristo Velato or the Veiled Christ, depicting Christ, post cruxifiction shrouded by a thin cloth, through which can be seen details as the veins and the wounds. The entire piece was carved from a single piece of marble as were many of the other pieces on display. With photography prohibited we felt a little "short-changed" but like everything else "google it" should correct that situation.
 After 3 full days of exploration, we felt that Naples had shown us all it could offer and we returned to our hotel to re-pack for our next 3 days in and around Pompeii.
 Walking out for dinner this evening, I still found myself touched by dozens of vendors on the street. one for every 50 feet of pavement, wares displayed on blankets, their efforts all but ignored by most of the passersby. Naples has always been a city associated with Organized Crime. Could his be part ofthe same? perhaps nothing more than an attempt to launder money back into the system. I guess I'll never know.

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